Desert to Dessert

Week 16

Back to Bulgaria

From Burcharest, we head south, and, as we continue down the coast of the Black Sea and cross back into Bulgaria, we come upon Pobiti Kamani (Bulgarian for "planted stones"), also known as The Stone Desert,

The Stone Desert is considered the only desert in Bulgaria and one of few found in Europe. The desert consists of sand dunes and several groups of natural rock formations on a total area of 13 km². The formations are mainly stone columns between 15 and 25 feet high and up to 10 feet thick. The columns do not have solid foundations, but are instead hollow and filled with sand, and look as if they were stuck into the surrounding sand, which gives the phenomenon its name. The Stone Desert is one of few places in Europe where cactus grow and reptiles are found to thrive.

For those heavy into geology and the sciences, please read on. All others, please skip the next two paragraphs.

There are a number of theories regarding the phenomenon's origin. The pioneering hypothesis can be divided roughly into two groups: suggesting an organic or abiotic origin. According to the former, the formations are the result of coral activity (but detail investigation shows no coral), while the latter explain the phenomenon with the prismatic weathering and desertification of the rocks, the formation of sand and limestone concretions, or lower Eocene bubbling reefs.

Based on a petrographic and stable isotope geochemical study and field observations, evidence exists that these structures represent an exceptionally record of paleo-hydrocarbon seep system (low magnesium calcite cements are strongly depleted in heavy carbon isotope 13C). The pathways of fluid circulation are recorded as columns set in sands, which columns after recent sand removal gave desert-like landscape. (Eyes cross and head spins).

Our geology lesson complete, we move on and come upon a fascinating site created by the combination of nature and man.

Inhabited by hermit monks in the 13th and 14th centuries, the Aladzha Monastery is a 2-level monastery built right into a rock cliffside with the second level containing a Monastery temple, the monastic cells, a refectory and a kitchen, the cemetery church and a crypt with the first level housing the monastery chapel.

Abandoned in the early 16th century, the monastery now a national monument in Bulgaria Many with legends about hidden treasures and ghosts of monks wandering among the ruins, but we encounter neither.

From the Aladzha Monastery we enter the city of Varna, site of the famous gold necropolis. In 1972 a workman on a tractor near Varna on the Black Sea coast accidentally unearthed what turned out to be one of the largest ancient graveyards in the world. Archaeologists soon discovered that this was no ordinary place of rest. Within the grave spaces were thousands of gold artifacts, the oldest ever gold hoard found.

Dating back to 4560-4450BC the necropolis had been constructed by the Thracians, a powerful warrior aristocracy who were excellent in metalworking and horsemanship. They valued gold so much they used it as an integral part of their burial rituals, taking it with them as they entered the afterlife.

After a desert and a necropolis, we opt for some beach time on the Varna shores. With beautiful beaches along the Black Sea, the Varna coast attracts vacationers from all over Northern Europe. Luckily, it’s offseason so we have the place virtually to ourselves.

We dip our toes in the water and find, as it is November, it to be a bit cold, but refreshing for our weary feet.

Istanbul, Turkey

From Varna, we head south into Turkey and come to the grand city of Istanbul.

In 330 AD when the great Roman Emperor Constantine made the city the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire, he decided to build it just like Rome, on seven hills (everybody likes building cities on seven hills it seems), the city also took its name after the emperor -Constantinople (City of Constantine), it was then renamed Istanbul in 1930 but many still call it Constantinople.

Istanbul is a peculiar city, as it is one of the very few cities in the world that straddles two continents. One part of Istanbul falls in Asia, while its other part lies in Europe. The Bosphorus Strait runs through the heart of the city separating the European side of the city from the Asia side.

Our first stop in is Istanbul is one of the most prominent monuments in the world and one of the most visited museums. Hagia Sophia is well-known for its impressive art and history of exquisite architecture.

Constructed in 537 AD, this magnificent monument is popular for its massive dome. For 916 years, this monument was a church. Later, it was converted into the Ottoman imperial mosque for 482 years. Today, Hagia Sophia is the most prominent landmark in Turkey and an outstanding museum.

Turkey is 99% Muslim and has some of the most beautiful mosques in the world. We visit the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, which is well-known as the Blue Mosque. It was constructed between 1609 and 1616 during the reign of Ahmed I and comprises a tomb of the founder, a hospice, and a madrasa.

In the mood for some shopping, we head to the Grand Bazaar, one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, with 61 covered streets and over 4,000 shops, attracting between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily. If you’re looking for it, you’re bound to find it here from jewelry, rugs, leather, spices and numerous things other Turkish specialties.

Sight-seeing and shopping create an appetite which we vanquish with some kebabs, Turkish tea and Turkish delight, also known as ‘lokum’ which is a family of confections comprising sugar and gel of starch and fillings such as walnuts, chopped dates, hazelnuts, and pistachios. Traditional varieties are known to be flavored with lemon, rosewater, Bergamot orange, and mastic.

Finding the Turkish delight, well, delightful, we end the week more fully appreciating the difference on "s" came make as one tries to discern between a desert and dessert. Group consensus is the dessert won. We covered over 600 miles this week and continue to be on track to get to Bethlehem by Christmas if we don't get lazy or lost. This coming week we'll continue to make our way across Turkey in search of more Turkish delight. Keep up the great work!